Video: Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724

Changing drums brakes involves many parts, but a manual and a camera to document where you started help may the process easier.
 

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Changing Drum Brakes

If you're going to keep the wheels turning on a beasty beauty like this, our '68 Ford F-250, there's a few basics we need to understand about brake drums and shoes.

You know, ironically, many of today's vehicles still utilize drum brakes on the back.  But with the advent of ABS and some fancy emergency brake hardware, those jobs can be a little intimidating. 

Today we're going to focus on the basics.There's two really important tools I like to use when tackling a drum brake job.  I like old school; the Haynes repair manual, I can follow it step-by-step.  And I like modern technology; a digital camera.  I'll show you what I mean.

We've got the vehicle secure on a level surface, and the wheel removed. The first step is to get the outer cap seal protection off.  Try not to bend it, you don't need to pinch it too hard. We've got a cotter pin to remove and then we get access to the nut.  

Once you have that cotter pin out, pull of the retaining nut, then you're going to need to break free the main retaining nut, got it loose. Those usually aren't very tight. You want to make sure you don't  over-torque that when we put everything back together. We'll definitely follow the torque requirements there.

Pull of the washer, in this case the whole bearing is coming out in my hand.  This is a good time to check for any fragmentation, any metal shavings...any clear evidence that this bearing has been under duress and it's failing.  This one actually looks pretty good.  But the right thing to do when you're doing this job is to replace this bearing and its seals.  We're going to do that.  One final tap with a dead blow hammer on the drum, should release those shoes for us.  The drum should come off in our hands.  And there we have it.

We've got our drums over at the shop, getting turned and trued.  I like to take some brake cleaner and spray it on all the hardware so I can get a good picture of it before I remove anything.

Remember the digital camera?  Now we've got three points of reference for this brake job.  We've got the Haynes Repair Manual, I've got the wheel off on the other side for very obvious reference, and immediate, and I've also got modern technology tool that can help me if I have any questions I want to pose online, or upload a picture to get an answer, now I've got that too.

First step is pull the retaining clip off.  Remove the tensioner cable.  Next I'm going to remove the top-tensioner springs that hold the top shoes in.  I'm going to release the tensioner spring that is on this tensioner cam for automatic adjustment.  There's our adjuster, here's the tension spring, and finally lets take the lower spring off so the shoes will release all-together.

Remove the first shoe, star wheel adjuster comes off in your hand, tensioner spring on the right side.  With the brake shoes and all  the hardware removed, the next step is to remove this wheel cylinder.  We think its the original one from 1968.  Before I take the mounting bolts loose from the wheel cylinder however, I'm going to loosen the brake line back here.  I'm going to take it easy on it because I think that's an aged line.  Once I've got it loosened up, lets go ahead and remove the wheel cylinder and back it out.

Get the two mounting bolts out of the back, these are just 1/2".  Now you might have to move your spindle to get enough slack in your brake line, so that when your wheel cylinder comes off the backing plate, now you can un-thread it from the brake line connection.  Pull the brake line back through the backing plate straight down into the cup.  We'll go ahead and let that drain while we do the rest of the job.

The right thing to do on this kind of job is to go ahead and replace the wheel cylinders, and we are.  But I wanted to point out that the seal, where the cam pushes into the shoes, has a substantial crack in it.  We've actually been losing a little bit of brake fluid here.  Definitely evidence that we've got to replace this thing.  Not hard to do.  

Be sure to install the new copper washer that came with the new wheel cylinder.  Pass the brake hose through the backing plate, thread on your new wheel cylinder.  Leave a little bit of slack so that when you go to mount it you've got a little flex.

Set the wheel cylinder in place, reinstall the mounting bolts...I've chosen the Wagner Thermo Quiet Brake Shoes for this project.  We're getting ultra high quality friction with it and additionally we've gotten all new brake hardware.  I know that some of the hardware we took off was Original Equipment - clearly in need of replacement.  In fact the people at Wagner have even thought to provide a new protective cap for the star wheel access on the drums.

We've got the first new shoe installed with the new spring clip. Before we install the second new Wagner shoe I had to transfer over the pivot point off the old shoe.  That allows the tensioner cable to track behind it.  Install it the same way.  I put the connection to the spring clip, pivot it on around, a little bit of leverage, snap that shoe right in...just about its final place.

When you're tackling a brake shoe project, be sure you get a few basic brake tools like this one.  Makes the job a whole let easier. Now, grab the spring.  Make sure your pivot point is not out on the new  friction material. Find a rivet hole so you don't damage the new shoe.Pull tension on the spring, set it in, you're good to go.

Next, reinstall the star wheel adjuster, back it out and create just a little bit of tension.  We'll make a final adjustment at the end. Using your brake tool, create enough tension, set it right down in, reinstall your tensioner cable.Put the spring on the new spring post. The cam goes next.  It only goes one way.  If you're not sure, check with the other side of the vehicle. Get the tension on the cam. Lift the spring up over the cam, and we're just about there.

We've got our brake drums back from the shop.  They're looking great! We also had them checked for true and we're in good shape. We've got our new bearing races already installed.  The next step is to liberally coat the new bearing with the appropriate wheel bearing grease.  We're also going to line that race with some grease.  Use your finger, just work it down in there.  You don't want a super thick layer, but you want to fully cover all the metal that you see. Take the new wheel bearing...work it down in the grooves, all the way around with your finger.  Take your time to do this right.  Flip it over, same thing on the other side and then your going to work it between your hands, just like a sandwich. One final coat around the outside, spin it.  It's messy, but you can be sure you're getting plenty of grease down in that new bearing.  You can see it took some, put another layer in just continue to work it.  Set it down inside the race, get it nice and true.  Don't worry about tension at this point. Spin it Get a little more grease,rolling all around those roller bearings.  And finally on the inside, the inner bearing seal.  It only goes one way, with the groove facing down to let the grease track as the bearing spins.  You'll find a sweet spot to get it started.  Don't mess with the edges.  Take your time on this.  Check for level all the way around.  The bearing spins freely, we're in good shape.

Now for the outer wheel bearing we do the same thing as we did for the inner wheel bearing.  Its a brand new one so you want to pack it liberally with grease.Spend a few quality minutes working it down in there. Spin it, turn it and push that grease down in. Pre-line your new bearing race with just a little bit of grease.  You just want a film on it, you don't want it real thick there. Get the outer wheel bearing in, pre-lube the race in there, it only goes in one way.  Work it in.  We have our seal and washer and finally the retaining nut. Tighten the outside nut to your final torque spec and then it says back it off a quarter of a turn, right about there.  Now, check the drum.  Make sure it spins freely.  We've got just a little bit of drag, but that's OK.  We're going to bleed the brakes after we get the other side done and we'll be ready for the road.

Your outside locking cap, drop in a new cotter pin,(he replaces the cover).

As always you've got to bleed the brakes when you finish the project.  Start at the wheel farthest away from the Master Cylinder Reservoir.  Top it off with the right fluid.  When we've done all that, we're ready for a test drive!

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 1 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 2 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 3 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 4 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 5 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 6 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 7 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 8 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 9 from the video

Wagner Changing Drum Brakes Video - Advance Auto Parts PAB724 - image 10 from the video

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